There are so many cool and interesting things to see and do in Midlothian and the Scottish Borders – and the fun starts here. The diversity of these hidden gems reflects the area’s unique character, and rich and varied heritage. It’s full of surprises, and best kept secrets. All within easy reach. Luckily, one of the most wonderful things about this region isn’t hidden at all – and that’s the spectacular scenery. With such a fantastic backdrop for your adventures, getting around is a joy from start to finish.
The Jim Clark Motorsport Museum
The Scottish Borders has a rich motor racing heritage, and its shining star was Jim Clark. A world away from the glamour of Formula 1, Clark honed his driving skills in the fields around the family farm in Berwickshire, and began competing in local rallies. Within a few years, he was winning Grand Prix. Clark won the World Championship twice - first in 1963, and again in 1965. He was also the first British driver to win the Indianapolis 500.
The Jim Clark Motorsport Museum in Duns is dedicated to his achievements. You can see all the trophies he received during his dazzling career – and it’s an amazing collection, charting Clark’s wins in Grand Prix, rallying, GT, sports and touring cars. The museum also features unique film footage, photos and Clark’s racing overalls. The Visitors Book is equally fascinating, and features many famous names including Ayrton Senna.
A national hero, an international star
Jim Clark’s epic total of 25 Grand Prix victories around the world was record-breaking at the time. Only a few drivers have beaten his tally since then, and none have achieved it in just 72 starts. Clark’s death on a wet track at Hockenheim, when he was just 32, shocked the sporting world. His memory continues to be treasured, and he is still a hugely inspiring figure in the racing world.
All roads lead to Duns
Racing is in the blood in the Scottish Borders, and the region produces a wealth of driving talent. The Jim Clark Rally, one of the most iconic events on the British motorsports calendar is held on the open roads of the Scottish Borders, allowing spectators to get incredibly close to the action. The race was created to celebrate the life of the famous Borderer and racing legend, cars from all over the country gather in Duns for the start of the two-day event.
There’s more to Duns than meets the eye
The whole area around Duns is beautiful, but this pretty market town really is a gem. And for its size, it has more than its fair share of things to see and do. The Jim Clark Museum takes centre stage, but don’t leave without seeing Duns Law. This 700ft hill fort dates back to the Iron Age, and the views from the top are stunning. The parkland around the medieval castle is lovely for a stroll – as is the nature reserve, just off Castle Street. You’ll also find lots of great shops and cafés around the historic market square.
How to get there
Address:
The Jim Clark Motorsport Museum, 42 Newtown Street, Duns, Berwickshire TD11 3AU
Distance from:
Edinburgh - 50 miles / 1 hour 10 minute drive
Carlisle - 84 miles / 2 hours 5 minute drive
Newcastle - 77 miles / 1 hour 35 minute drive
York - 166 miles / 3 hours 10 minute drive
Transport options:
Closest rail station - Berwick upon Tweed for onward connection
Closest bus stop - Volunteer Hall
Started:
1978
Open:
March to November
Hours :
Monday to Saturday 10am – 4.30pm (closed Wednesdays)
Sunday 1pm – 4.30pm
Admission:
Adult £5,
Concession £4.50,
Child £3,
Family £14,
Under 5s Free
Penicuik Papermaking Heritage Museum
Penicuik is known as ‘The Papermaking Town’, and the museum and heritage centre provide a richly-deserved tribute to its 300-year-old papermaking history.
One of a kind
It’s the only museum like this in Scotland, with a unique role in demonstrating the wonders of paper-making. Through guided tours, demonstrations, and a warm welcome to visitors, the museum brings to life the history of paper-making, and the part played by Penicuik’s own papermakers. Best of all, you won’t just find out how paper is made – you can have a go at making it yourself. You can also take home a special reminder of your visit from the museum’s vintage stationery shop.
Every ton of paper required three tons of coal and two tons of raw materials to produce. Originally the paper was made from cotton and linen rags. As demand grew, papermakers looked for new materials – such as wood pulp, esparto grass from North Africa, then chemical wood pulp. China clay from Cornwall was also used to improve the printing qualities.
At one time, there were 10 paper mills between Penicuik and nearby Lasswade. The age of papermaking in the area ended with the closure of Dalmore mill in 2004. All is not lost, however. One of these former mills is now an award-winning restaurant and bar. You’ll find The Paper Mill in the conservation village of Lasswade, right next to the bridge over the River Esk.
A passion for paper making
The Heritage Museum is manned entirely by volunteers. Launching the museum involved hours of historical research, assembling papermaking documents and artefacts, and campaigning for donations of materials – not to mention finding the right home for the heritage centre. So it has been a real labour of love. And the project continues to grow, with many people donating interesting objects for the exhibition. Since the museum opened in 2018, there have been over 500 visitors. And as it’s a registered charity, entry to the museum is by donation.
From Penicuik to Pretoria
Paper produced in Penicuik travelled right around the world, thanks to its reputation for high quality. The paper was used by a wide range of printers, publishers, stationers, manufacturers and businesses – for products ranging from books, newspapers and magazines, to bank notes and wallpaper.
How to get there
Address:
1-7 Bridge Street, Penicuik EH26 8LL
Distance from:
Edinburgh - 12 miles / 31 minute drive
Carlisle - 85 miles / 1 hour 45 minute drive
Newcastle - 111 miles / 2 hours 30 minute drive
York - 198 miles / 3 hours 45 minute drive
Transport options:
Closest rail station - Kingsknowe for onward connection
Closest bus stop - Terminus
Established:
2018
Open:
Thursdays, Friday, Saturdays for tours at 11am and 2pm
Admission:
By donation
Beirhope Alpaca Trekking
Get ready to meet some of the Scottish Borders’ cutest – and most famous – residents … Tenzing, Yehudi, Graffiti, Monty, Sam, Caesar, Daniel and Diego. The lads live at Beirhope Farm in the Cheviot Hills, and they’d love for you to take them out for a stroll around the beautiful countryside of the Cheviot Hills. They might not say much, but they’ll happily let you cuddle them and give them treats. By the way, did we mention that they’re Alpacas?
Keeping it in the family
This friendly, family run smallholding is also home to the lovely female alpacas, and their babies. A visit to Beirhope is the perfect way to escape the drama of the city, and clear your mind in the fresh air and breathtaking scenery of the Cheviots - in the company of these sweet little superstars.
Insta ready, private picnics with the pacas
For an experience like no other - book a ‘Pet-A-Paca’ picnic. You bring your own food, and Beirhope will take care of the rest. The picnic includes a hot drinks basket for you, and a full loaded cake stand of treats for your new furry friends. There are also sunset strolls, and lots of other exciting events and activities throughout the year. Pop into the shop for some lovely accessories to take home. There’s also a wonderful selection of luxury wools - including beautifully soft yarn from the fleeces of the prize-winning alpacas who live here.
A trek over the hills - with a difference
Beirhope farm is a genuinely hidden gem, sitting on the old Roman road just outside the hamlet of Hownam. For a wonderful way to spend time with the alpacas, and enjoy the stunning views and local wildlife, why not try one of treks? There are different routes available – from a gentle potter around the paddocks, to an amazing three hour adventure in the rolling hillside. To make the experience complete, you can help bring the alpacas in, pop their head collars on, feed them - and generally fuss over them!
Exploring the area
The combination of alpaca selfies and amazing scenery make this a perfect day out. And it’s only just over an hour’s drive from Edinburgh, or Newcastle. If you want to explore the area further, there’s lots to see and do in the nearby towns of Jedburgh, Kelso and Hawick. For history buffs, Floors Castle is within easy reach. And you can discover all about the area’s Roman past at the Trimontium Heritage Centre in Melrose. To see the area at its most beautiful, you can also join the St Cuthbert’s Way at Melrose. This iconic Borders walk is also one of Scotland’s Great Trails.
How to get there
Address:
Beirhope Farm, Hownam, Kelso, TD5 8A
Distance from:
Edinburgh - 55 miles / 1 hour 33 minute drive
Carlisle - 61 miles / 1 hour 46 minute drive
Newcastle - 60 miles / 1 hour 30 minute drive
York - 148 miles / 3 hours 5 minute drive
Transport options:
Closest rail station - Tweedbank for onward connection via taxi or car
Closest bus stop - Otterburn Rd End via taxi or car
Open:
All year round. Closed one day each week – on flexible basis
Treks:
Bookings in advance. Treks and strolls run twice a day, at 11am and 2pm
Other activities:
Meet-A-Paca, and Pet-A-Paca picnics
Prices :
From £9, under 3s free
Gunsgreen House
Looking at Gunsgreen House today, with its air of genteel respectability, you might never guess its infamous past. John Adam, one of the most famous architects of his day, designed the house in 1753 for a local merchant named John Nisbet. By day, Nisbet was a pillar of society. By night, he was a notorious smuggler.
A house full of secrets
The mansion contains many hiding places for smuggled goods, such as the unique Tea Chute hidden behind the walls. The tax on tea was especially high at 119%, and it was from the nation’s favourite drink that Nisbet made most of his money. The house’s harbour location was also perfect for the comings and goings of illicit trade. The vaulted cellars are now home to a fascinating museum – and the only smugglers you’ll see today are the kids in costume, completing the puzzles and trails inside the house.
A sticky end to the smuggling
The large cellars lead directly to the sea, and illegal deliveries once included brandy, tobacco and tea. Much of the tea landed at Gunsgreen House came from Sweden. But by law, all tea had to come directly from China. It seems that Nisbet’s secret activities weren’t really that secret after all, and in 1789, a local lawyer referred to the “great extent” of his smuggling. If you take a Rib Trip out to sea, you can still see the numerous smugglers’ caves among the cliffs and coves. After numerous cargo seizures, Nisbet’s business finally collapsed and he went bankrupt in 1789. The house was snapped up at auction by the same rival who brought Nisbet to court - Alexander Robertson.
Grandest designs
Gunsgreen is in illustrious company design-wise. Architect John Adam was once apprenticed to his famous father, William Adam. John’s brother Robert was an equally renowned architect, and the family often worked in collaboration. The incredible number of high profile properties touched by the Adam family genius include Arniston House in Midlothian, and Mellerstain House, Wedderburn Castle, and Paxton House in the Scottish Borders. John also worked on The Royal Exchange in Edinburgh, Inveraray Castle, and Dumfries House in Ayrshire.
Gunsgreen itself has been a family home, a guest house, and even a golf club. In 1998, it stood empty and abandoned. That same year however, The Gunsgreen House Trust was established and the mansion was carefully restored. This historic house is now an engaging attraction, with a story that appeals to children and adults alike.
How to get there
Address:
Gunsgreen House, Gunsgreen Quay, Eyemouth, Berwickshire, TD14 5SD
Distance from:
Edinburgh - 51 miles / 1 hour 10 minute drive
Carlisle - 94 miles / 2 hours 19 minute drive
Newcastle - 73 miles / 1 hour 29 minute drive
York - 155 miles / 3 hours 12 minute drive
Transport options:
Closest rail station - Berwick upon Tweed for onward connection
Closest bus stop - Albert Road Hospital
Built:
Dates from 1753
Open:
Gunsgreen House Open: 30th March until 31st October, Every Day 11:00 am-5:00 pm (last admissions 4:00 pm)
Admission:
Adults £6.80,
Concessions £5.80,
Children (5-16) £4.20,
Under 5s free
Edinburgh Butterfly & Insect World
Walk on the wild side
If you like creepy crawlies, you’ll love Edinburgh Butterfly & Insect World. A short hop to Dobbies Garden World in Lasswade opens up an exotic rainforest filled with butterflies, reptiles and all kinds of beautiful bugs. You can get right up to the wee beasties, and even handle them (if you dare!) There’s also a Jungle Gift Shop, picnic and play area, and plenty of free parking.
From bugs and butterflies – to plants, trees and shrubs
Edinburgh Butterfly & Insect World is conveniently located within the grounds of Dobbies Garden World. It’s one of the largest garden centres in Scotland, and includes a well-stocked foodhall and kitchen shop. The restaurant is an ideal place to sit and relax over afternoon tea, or coffee and a sweet treat.
Edinburgh Butterfly & Insect World is the world's longest running butterfly house. As well as hundreds of exotic butterflies, the residents include some seriously impressive tarantulas. They only hunt at night-time – so you’ll be quite safe! And their preferred snacks are insects, beetles and grasshoppers. There are also some seriously cute terrapins here, and a giant tortoise – great fun to watch at feeding time! You can also see a colony of leaf cutter ants. These small but mighty troopers march along, happily carrying up to 50 times their own body weight.
A day in the life…
There’s always something going on here. Check the daily schedule, and get involved!
10am - Meet and Greet
11am - Feeding Demonstrations
12pm - Animal Handling
2pm - Feeding Demonstration
3pm - Animal Handling
4pm - Feeding Demonstration
The beautiful butterflies flying freely in their indoor tropical rainforest are a spectacular sight. And you can see them feeding, courting, and laying their eggs. The specially grown plants an abundance of food for the many caterpillars – and they’re fascinating to watch, too.
All the insects and animals have their own purpose built habitats, providing an opportunity to get closer and learn more about these weird and wonderful creatures. Don’t miss the terrapins, stick insects, praying mantis and millipedes. And no visit is complete without a visit to The Reptile Room - home to lizards, chameleons and even pythons.
How to get there
Address:
Edinburgh Butterfly & Insect World
at Dobbies Garden World, Melville Nursery, Lasswade, Midlothian, EH18 1AZ
Distance from:
Edinburgh - 6 miles / 27 minute drive
Carlisle - 90 miles / 1 hour 57 minute drive
Newcastle - 99 miles / 2 hours 20 minute drive
York - 191 miles / 3 hours 54 minute drive
Transport options:
Closest rail station - Eskbank
Closest bus stop - Dobbies Garden World
Open:
All year round, 7 days a week - except 25th-26th December and 1st January
Admission:
Adults £7.95,
Concessions £6.95,
Children (3 – 15 £5.95,
Under 3s free,
Families from £26.50
Hours:
Varies by season, 10am – 5pm in summer
Restaurant:
At the adjoining Dobbies Garden World
The Mainstreet Trading Company
When you visit The Mainstreet Trading Company in beautiful St. Boswell’s, it’s easy to see why it was voted Britain’s Best Small Shop in 2018. Like so many things about the Borders, this gorgeous store is simply unique. And full of lovely surprises. It’s an independent bookshop, a deli, a café, a gift shop, stationery shop, home shop and general store all rolled into one. Not forgetting the window displays. They’re an artistic triumph.
This gorgeous store is a highlight of any visit to the Borders – and that’s really saying something in an area that is packed with so many interesting things to see and do. Lots of visitors regard The Mainstreet Trading Company as a destination in itself.
From one hidden gem, to another
St. Boswell’s is something of a hidden gem in the Scottish Borders. It boasts the largest village green in Scotland, but it’s still easy to drive past and miss it. There’s an unassuming quality to the place, which makes getting to know it all the more special. And nestling in the heart of the village, is another gem – The Mainstreet Trading Company. The Borders is home to many interesting and unusual shopping experiences, and this is most definitely one of the best. As well as books, the store is bursting with wonderful things – from artisanal goods in the deli, to quirky brands for your home and kitchen, to nourishing botanicals for bath and body. All by the welcoming firelight of the wood burning stove.
The story unfolds…
The Mainstreet Trading Company has an interesting back story. The building was originally home to Walter Ballantyne & Son, Grocers, Wine Merchants and Italian Warehousemen. This giant general store sold everything from shoes to whisky. After the store closed, the space became a busy auction house, with monthly sales drawing lots of people to St. Boswells. In 2008, the property transformed again - into a bright, light and airy space filled with books. And the inviting smell of coffee. The Mainstreet Trading Company had opened its doors.
The next chapter
The Mainstreet Trading Company’s main store was expanded in 2012, when work finished in the barn and Mainstreet Deli & Home was born. In true fairy tale tradition, this new venture was launched by none other than top chef Tom Kitchin – the youngest ever winner of a Michelin Star. Since then, the store has gone from strength to strength, culminating in 2018’s big win – being voted Britain’s Best Small Shop.
How to get there
Address:
The Mainstreet Trading Company, Main St, St Boswells, Melrose TD6 0AT
Distance from:
Edinburgh - 39 miles / 1 hour 15 minute drive
Carlisle - 59 miles / 1 hour 31 minute drive
Newcastle - 65 miles / 1 hour 40 minute drive
York - 154 miles / 3 hour 10 minute drive
Transport options:
Closest rail station - Tweedbank for onward connection. Buses available from there and Galashiels to St Boswells
Closest bus stop - St Boswells Bus Stance
Doors opened:
2008
Hours:
Tuesdays – Saturdays 9am – 5.30pm,
Sundays 11am – 4.30pm
Learn more about the celebrated heritage, culture and high fashion of the Scottish Borders and Midlothian in Episode 3 of our Scotland Starts Here Podcast series.
